The Oil Over Water Debate

AND...once again I came across some BAD advice given to a new flipper on FB that could derail her - all because the commenter couldn't admit she needed to reconsider her facts. (I grayed out the names of those speaking or who was being tagged other than my own comment)

Honestly, it's not that hard. Just say, "Oh, OK, that's news to me. Thanks." 

But no, that's not possible, ESPECIALLY when the admin closes out comments before I could "bring the receipts." That's just a nice way of saying I couldn't tell her she was wrong. So, here's a break down about it all - oil-based over water-based products and water-based over oil-based products, focusing on primer. Enjoy.

And btw, "I'm a furniture artist" doesn't cut it. We all need to keep learning and can NEVER say we've arrived. We're just regular people trying to do a stellar job so we can beautify the world around us while we pay our bills.

If you want a mini-ebook (more like a long list of what to do) for new furniture flippers that I put together just because I love you, go here >>> Flipping for Profit (ValFrania.com/flilp4profit)

Primer FB convo

Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Primers: What Furniture Flippers Need to Know

If you’re a furniture flipper, hopefully you already know that prep is everything, and the primer you choose can make or break your final finish.

But here’s where things get confusing:

    •    Can you use an oil-based primer over a water-based product?
    •    Can you use a water-based primer over an oil-based product?
    •    And why would you even want to?

Let’s break it down so you can prep like a pro and avoid the costly peeling, cracking, and redo jobs.

(HINT: the answer is "Yes, you can do both," with some conditions)

Why You Might Use an Oil-Based Primer Over Water-Based Paint

Oil-based primers are known for excellent adhesion, stain blocking, and bonding to slick surfaces like laminate or old varnish. So why put one over a water-based product?

✅ When It Makes Sense:
    •    You painted something with water-based paint, but it’s chipping or not adhering well. Applying an oil-based bonding primer over it is an option - but first you'll need to scrape or sand to get off all the paint that hasn't adhered, causing it to chip. In the case of peeling, I'd never recommend just painting over it with primer. It's too risky, especially if you are selling the piece, it's better to strip and start over.
    •    You’re dealing with bleed-through (like mahogany or knots) that a water-based product didn’t block. Oil-based primers are more effective at sealing in tannins and stains.
    •    You want maximum durability before applying a fresh topcoat.

⚠️ What to Watch Out For:
    •    The water-based product underneath must be fully cured—not just dry. If not, the oil can prevent it from drying properly or cause bubbling. This is due to off-gassing.
    •    Test for compatibility before committing to the whole piece. READ THE BACK OF THE CAN.

How to do it right:
    1.    Let the water-based layer cure for at least 24–72 hours.
    2.    Lightly sand to scuff the surface.
    3.    Apply a thin coat of oil-based primer.
    4.    Allow it to dry fully (usually 8–24 hours depending on the brand).

Why You Might Use a Water-Based Primer Over an Oil-Based Surface

This is a more common scenario, especially when you’re flipping older furniture with a shiny varnish or oil-based finish. You might want to switch to water-based paint for easier cleanup, faster drying, or lower VOCs—but water-based products won’t stick directly to glossy or oily surfaces.

✅ When It Makes Sense:
    •    You’re painting over an old oil-based finish.
    •    You want to switch to water-based paint but still need proper adhesion.
    •    You’re flipping indoors and want low odor or fast drying.

⚠️ The Catch:

Water-based primers need a properly prepped surface to stick to oil-based finishes. If you skip that step, the paint can peel off in sheets.

How to do it right:
    1.    Degloss the surface—either by sanding or using a liquid deglosser. I always suggest sanding, though I know many use a deglosser.
    2.    Wipe clean of all dust and residue. 
    3.    Apply a high-quality water-based bonding primer (look for ones that specifically say they adhere to glossy or oil-based surfaces).
    4.    Let it dry fully before applying water-based paint.

Feature

Dry Time

VOCs & Smell

Blocks Stains/Bleed

Adheres to Slick Surfaces

Clean UP

Sandability

Oil-Based Primer

6-24 hours

High

Excellet

Excellent

Mineral spirits

Smooth, durable base

Water-Based Primer

30 min - 1 hour

Low

Moderate

Good (with proper prep)

Soap & water

Sands easier, less durable

 So, Which Should You Use?

The answer depends on your project:

 Use oil-based primer when:
    •    You’re dealing with heavy stains, tannins, or bleed-through.
    •    You’re painting over dark wood or laminate.
    •    You need maximum adhesion and durability.

 Use water-based primer when:
    •    You’re flipping indoors and want low odor.
    •    You’re on a tighter schedule and need a faster dry time.
    •    You’ve already prepped your surface well and aren’t dealing with heavy bleed-through.

Final Word: Mixing Water and Oil? It’s All About the Cure Time

Whether you’re applying oil over water or vice versa, the key is cure time and proper prep. Never rush it. If the underlying product isn’t cured and stable, your primer won’t adhere properly—no matter how high-end it is.

Bottom Line
    •    Yes, you can use oil-based primer over water-based paint—but only if the paint is fully cured.
    •    Yes, you can use water-based primer over an oil-based finish—but only if the surface is properly prepped.

When done right, mixing oil and water in your primer/paint system can give you the best of both worlds: strong adhesion, great stain-blocking, and a durable, beautiful finish.

What do I use? (I included some Amazon links for you)

•  DH (dear hubby) sprays most of our pieces with oil-based primer out in our garage, with an exhaust fan nearby, because it's the best. 
•  If we need a quick fix or have a small area to prime, we use the rattle can type of primer outside or in our garage.
•  If I need to brush on an oil-based primer, I use (afflinks) Zinsser's oil-based primer or their gray oil-based primer. I do it down in my workshop but make sure I have good ventilation and I do it quickly and leave the room right away (I seldom do this and only in a pinch when DH isn't available). Otherwise I will use water-based, the type with shellac, Zinsser Advanced BIN

 

There is so much to learn - even on the subject of priming believe it or not! It took me years to get to the place where I am confident and feel like I know the ins and outs of flipping. Feel free to ask questions or share your own tips. When you request my mini-ebook, Flipping for Profit, for new flippers, you'll also have a chance for a great offer that I've put together for you that will see you through from beginner to PRO in short order. Watch for the email.

It may have taken me years to get here because I didn't have a mentor or access to insider tips, but there's not reason you have to take that long! 

Start here ⇒ ValFrania.com/flip4profit

Happy primer-ing,

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