When you’re new to furniture flipping, it’s easy to get sucked into the advice whirlpool—especially in Facebook groups where everyone seems to have an opinion. Some of it is gold… but a lot of it? Not so much.

If you’ve ever been told to skip prep, the brand you are using is why "this or that" is happening, or that “anyone can do it” with zero experience, you’ve probably run into a few of the common myths that make flipping harder—not easier.

In this post, I’m breaking down one popular (but very wrong) tip floating around online, so you can avoid frustration and flip with confidence right from the start.

PEELING PAINT

I recently read a post in a Facebook group from someone that was very distraught because she bought a buffet from a local flipper for $400 and the paint was peeling. She tried to get ahold of the lady she bought it from with no response and wanted to know what to do.

Several comments mentioned that it didn't look like it had a top coat on it and that she should go find matching paint, paint that spot and then add poly over the whole piece to "keep it from peeling."

[Buzzer sound] NOPE! BAD ADVICE!

Unfortunately, the problem was with the prep. Or rather, lack thereof.

Her only solution barring returning it and getting her money back is to redo the piece herself, prepping it properly before painting.

No amount of poly or wax on top of a poorly adhered paint will fix the problem.

I told her the only way to fix it was to strip it - get ALL of the paint off, because it will eventually come off anyway because the paint will not adhere no matter what else she puts over it.

The paint wasn't sticking due to improper prep.

Perhaps the piece wasn't clean. Maybe the original paint job was shiny oil-based or was sealed with a slick sealer like precat that should have been either removed or sanded for tooth. Perhaps the previous owner used an oily polish on it.

Can you imagine paying $400 for a piece and having to redo it yourself? Ugh. Paint slappers will be the death of me.

PROPER PREP

Clean, repair, sand enough to scuff up the finish, clean again, and prime if needed. We prime nearly all of our pieces for that extra UMMPH to not only help with adhesion but to stop tannins and stains from bleeding.

Another option if concerned over adhesion is to use (afflink) STIX Bonding Primer. I use it occasionally for some pieces, depending on the situation.

MY FIRST EXPERIENCE WITH PEELING PAINT

I flew out to Virginia a few years ago to visit my DD who was in college. I had given her an end table we inherited from her great aunt. She showed me where the paint she used on it was peeling. I easily peeled every last bit of the paint off in a matter of minutes.

She had used regular latex wall paint of the cheaper sort and had done no prep.

Latex wall paint is made to be somewhat elastic so when the house settles, or is affected by dry or humid days, the paint will move with the wall and not crack. This is NOT a good paint for furniture because of the elasticity. The fact it's a cheap paint doesn't help either. Great for walls. Bad for furniture.

Clean, sand, clean, paint - with the right kind of paint. It may take a bit of time to do it properly, but the finish should last another 100 years. Whoa to those who in this business turn out poorly redesigned products. 

NEVER skip prep - even if the company tells you their paint requires no prep.

The truth is, successful flipping takes more than quick tips and viral hacks—it takes skill, practice, and a willingness to learn the right way from the start. Don’t let bad advice derail your progress or make you second-guess your potential.